Horse Bliss

Why Is Going Barefoot So Shocking To Horse People?

By, Georgette Topakas     www.ZephyrsGarden.com

Here I go again preaching about going barefoot (it’s a mission for me!), but I wanted to share an experience from several weekends ago.  My daughter and I were in San Juan Capistrano, CA showing at The Oaks.   She was showing in the grass ring, and I was the nervous mother on the rail, watching and counting strides.  Before she and Zephyr (show name Tall, Dark, & Handsome) set foot in the ring, there was some extra attention surrounding the two of them.  Zephyr was the only horse showing on the grass without studs.  In fact, he is completely shoeless, front and back.  Several trainers thought it was impossible (and one thought against the rules for safety issues) to jump without studs, but Zephyr was as sure-footed as always, contrary to the many horses I saw tripping over their feet.  I’ve never had a horse in studs, but I imagine it can take a bit of getting used to.  Not only was he as sure-footed as a mountain goat, but they won their division, probably causing some trainers to scratch their heads in wonder.

Big, Bold & Barefoot!  Zephyr (Tall, Dark & Handsome) at the Oaks

Now that I’ve bragged a bit, I need to ask, “Why is going barefoot so shocking to horse people?”  I have yet to see a downside; my expenses for hoof care are less, my horses both move soundly, both have become more balanced and better muscled, my life has been simplified since I never worry about a lost shoe or a hot nail, and by being able to understand hoof health I have a better “picture” of my horses’ overall well-being.  At the show, several trainers approached me to inquire how such a large horse (Zephyr is 17.1 hands) could be barefoot and have good feet.  There’s a myth that only ponies with dark hooves can go shoeless.  One trainer said, “My horse eats an apple fritter every morning and has horrid feet, do you think that may be the reason?”  Sugar, sugar, sugar!!  That’s one major cause for bad hooves.  I’m not a hoof expert, but my “secret” to good hooves is pretty simple – no alfalfa, minimal sweets, minimal grains, grass hay, some good herbs and that’s it.  I don’t use prepackaged hoof supplements or dressings, and I keep their feet as dry as possible.  I feel my approach is just a more simple way of taking care of our horses, though many view it as labor intensive.

First, the sugars.  My horses’ love apples, in fact, we have 5 apple trees at our house.  They’ll get a few apples a week, but not by the bucket full.  Same with carrots.  A carrot now then, not 5 lbs a day.  People equate sugary treats (and yes carrots are full of sugar) with love.  I also treat with fresh dandelion leaves, Swiss Chard, and melon rinds. In addition, I’ve told our trainer that no one else can “treat” the horses except us.  I don’t want some well- meaning person giving them a dozen carrots or a handful of molasses sweetened cookies.  Of course, no sweet feed either.

No alfalfa.  My trimmer once told me that he’s never seen a horse with good hooves that eats alfalfa.   Even just a little one winter to keep weight on made Zephyrs’ feet go downhill.  Good grass hay, and plenty of it, should be your dietary foundation.  If we had pasture, I’m sure that would be even better.

For their buckets, both horses get Triple Crown Lite.  It’s been a terrific feed for us and has helped keep both horses healthy.  Whenever I’ve tried to change feed (and don’t ask me why I did this) Zephyr’s feet have had flaking and fungal issues due to excessive sugar and/or grains. 

I love using herbs for the horses.  All my knowledge has been through reading books and by subscribing to Horse Journal.  There are lots of great horse herbal books on the market and I’ve tried to read them all.  If there was a horse herbalist in my area, I might have gone that route, but it’s been fun to learn along the way.  My “core” herbs are Bladderwrack Kelp, Dandelion Leaf, Rosehips, and Cleavers.  I also pour on the raw apple cider vinegar and grind flax seed daily.  I mix all this in with the Triple Crown Lite, add some water, some Olive Oil (being Greek I’m partial to this healthy oil), and stir.  I’m also a big fan of garlic and Spirulina during the fly season.

Lastly, and here’s the one that no one realizes is important – DRY FEET.  Wet feet can turn soft, mushy, tender, and for Zephyr, attracts fungus.  We keep his bedding as dry as possible and I rarely hose him off.  I save the baths for the shows and, when in training, let him air dry.  Once the sweat is dry, it curries off easily.  After we ride, we hand walk/graze the horses, let the sun dry the sweat and curry away.  I have to confess, I love to curry!   Their coats are soft, full of natural oils and shine, and their feet are dry.  It’s really win/win but it takes a bit longer then putting your horse in the cross-ties and hosing them off.   I also try to never put a damp horse back in his stall, that’s just begging for a good case of fungus.  One item I do put on their hooves is Zephyr’s Garden Hoof Growth Salve.  I created it for Zephyr and still rub it on his coronary bands once every week or so to keep growth strong.  I also use it at shows instead of hoof oil.  I let it warm in the sun and paint it on with a brush.  It’s Olive Oil based, so his feet have a show shine and are healthy. 

So, aside from taking the time to research some herbs, groom a little longer, and regulate my horses’ sweets, caring for a barefoot horse is not that much different then ones with shoes.  I love sharing my barefoot experience, but for some reason, other horse people are very hesitant to follow suit.  I hear all sorts of excuses, “Your horses’ must have really good feet, my horses’ feet are horrible” or “My trainer would never allow it, it’s against the barn rules”.   My favorite is, “My farrier said my horses’ feet would crumble with the pounding they take in the sand ring and over jumps.”  Yes, there are a million excuses, but truly, if I can do it anyone can!   

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My Horse Wore Jimmy Choo Shoes (and why he’s now barefoot)

By, Georgette Topakas (www.ZephrysGarden.com)

It’s true, for the price I was paying for my horse to be shod every 4 weeks; I could have bought myself a new pair of Jimmy Choo shoes once a month.  Nieman Marcus would have loved me, and I would have fondly cared for my multiplying pairs of $300+ shoes.  As it was, my farrier loved me and my horse, Zephyr, had no regards for his shoes.  He’d knock them off during a turnout, wear them down to nothing before it was time to replace, but the worst part was that I would not keep his front left shoe on.  No matter how many times it came off, the farrier could never make it last until the next trimming.  What was going on I asked?  I was told, “Zephyr has a compressed heal bulb and bad feet, like all Warmbloods.  But he’s not lame, so why worry?”  I worried even more.

At the same time, I had been reading about horses’ going barefoot.  When I suggested it, I was laughed at by my trainer and the vet just shook her head and walked away. Was I crazy?  How come so many other people had barefoot horses that did Cross Country, Endurance, Eventing…why not Hunters in Southern California?  First, I got new farrier.  For even more money (we’re in the Manolo range now) I finally got an answer to the falling off shoes – White Line Disease.  But he promised he could cure it and keep the poor horse shod, training, and showing.  His feet looked horrendous so I started researching this hoof disease on the Internet.  I also spoke to a lot of barefoot people and found an amazing trimmer that hails from Arkansas.  Lucky me, he traveled to California every 5 weeks and trims over 100 horses in our state. 

This was my “big break”.  Mike Lagrone, our trimmer for the past 4 years, took one look at Zephyr and together we worked on a plan to heal his feet, improve his diet, and make him “whole” again.  He needed a dry pasture, different feed, a huge reduction of sweets (carrots and apples are full of sugar), and no more alfalfa hay.  Much to my trainers’ dismay and against our vets wishes, the horse was moved to a pasture facility, taken out of training, and all four shoes were pulled.  This was the beginning of a new relationship and new way of natural horsemanship for Zephyr and me.  It also was the beginning of what will probably be a lifelong friendship between Mike Lagrone and me. 

It took months to grow healthy feet and there was some pain for poor Zephyr.  Mike stated he had never seen a horse with such a bad case of White Line Disease.  But Zephyr was happy in a pasture, probably the first time since he was a foal, and he was getting healthier.  His diet was completely overhauled – no more grains (only use Triple Crown Lite), no more pounds of apples and carrots, no more alfalfa, and lots of healthy herbs were added to boost his immune system, aid in hoof growth, and increase circulation.  In addition, I learned a lot about overall hoof care and White Line.  I won’t bore you with the details, but I did a lot of scrubbing of his soles with a Borax solution, I use Oregano Oil to help with fungus, and I concocted a hoof growth salve that stimulates growth from the coronary band.  It’s also great for my cuticles! 

So where are we now?  Zephyr has been barefoot for four years and I still fret over his feet.  He’s one of those horses prone to fungus and I take great pains to keep his feet dry and clean.  Mike still trims him every 5 weeks and I consider him a “partner” in caring for this magnificent beast.  With all the time I spent working on his feet and bringing him back into training, our bond grew amazingly strong.  This past November, my daughter moved onto him and competes in Children’s Hunters and Equitation, thus proving that a barefoot horse can show on the A Circuit.  Going shoeless saved Zephyr’s feet, enabled me to discover a holistic approach to horse care, and taught me many life lessons.  A barefoot horse is not for everyone and you need to be confident in your decision.  If you are in a training situation, you will probably be bucking the norm, so be prepared to stand firm and find a supportive partner, like I did in Mike.  Good Luck!

Home Remedies

By Tonya Ouellette

I was recently asked to put a list together that contains various products and home remedies that I have come across over my years of equine care. Please keep in mind, I am NOT a vet, and not every product works the same with every horse. These are some of the things that I have come across through various resources and have used them with my personal horses and seen good results.

Thrush- After cleaning out the hoof applying a combination of Neosporin and an anti-fungal cream used to treat athletes foot. I find this to be more expensive than the “traditional” thrush medications available for purchase; however it seems to be VERY effective. For me, I would much rather get it cleared up right away without causing further damage to the frog.

Rain Rot – When we lived in Florida this had to be one of the most annoying and widespread irritations I have ever had to deal with. You find this skin condition in warm humid climates. In our case hurricane season turned out to be the worst time of year for this with our horses. It starts out as large crust-like scabs or small matted patches of hair. At some points you would see dozens of tiny scabs embedded within the hair that could be scraped off. Under those scabs the skin is usually pink and sometimes contained puss. These areas were sensitive to the touch, and during the healing process large patches of hair come off with these scabs leaving bald spots. We tried EVERYTHING –one of the products that was recommended by several vets was the micotek shampoo. Expensive and a complete waste of time. Some of the horses responded to an initial bath with betadine shampoo if it was caught right away and then switched to a tea-tree oil shampoo to make sure their skin did not become irritated, the tea-tree oil promotes healing and will help with various skin conditions. I would follow up with mixing vetroline in a bucket and applying it with a sponge and leaving that to dry on the coat. This method worked for most of my horses; however I did come across a product called Nu-Stock. This worked on ALL of my horses. It comes in a small jar, and it is a greasy yellow paste. Smear it all over the affected areas and leave it to dry. I would leave this on for three days and reapply then follow up with a tea-tree oil bath and we would find that the rain rot was cleared up without having to go through the blistering and major hair loss. I was able to purchase this from my local feed store back in Florida. If you are unable to find it, this product is available online at http://www.nustock.com/
Arthritic and Joint – I have a 14 year old QH who has arthritis in his back hocks. It was recommended by my vet to put him on adaquine injections. Wow, now this was expensive to start. The loading doses are what get you. The monthly cost to maintain AFTER you get your loading dose can vary depending on how often your horse is getting injected. My vet from Florida mentioned that he uses a “generic” adaquine on his personal horses. I was reluctant, but decided to give that a try, and it was 1/3 of the cost. Acetyl-d-glucosamine is the name of the product, it comes in a 5 and 10% solution. The prescription must be called in by a vet and you can get 10 doses for a little more than the cost of 1 dose of the adaquine. http://www.monumentpharmacy.com is the place where I get it now that I have moved away from my previous vet. 

Racetrack

Gone Like the Wind written by Buzz Bissinger is featured in Vanity Fair.  Its a wonderful article that follows the story of Barbaro.  With the  excitement of the Kentucky Derby betting it was heartbreaking to hear about the tragedy of Eight Belles that followed.   

Sarcoid Study on My Gelding

By  Tonya Ouellette

Ok, this has been an ongoing dilemma for us. To treat, or not to treat? When we first purchased Kojack ( seven years ago ) he had a small area the size of a golf ball next to his nostril on the left side that never would grow hair. Over the next couple of years he developed several types of skin deformities, some were small clusters, others were small nodules, and then there was simply the area that had no hair.

Kojack has recently developed two new nodules which are rubbing and interfering with haltering and bridleing so we have now chose to treat them. This was a hard decision for us. I should mention that this gelding is 21 years old. After speaking with several vets and doing online research we chose Xxtera over the various treatments as it seemed to be the least evasive and harmful to the horse.

What is a sarcoid? Well this is a tumor of the skin which can be found on horses, donkeys, mules, presumably caused by bovine papilloma virus infection, characterized by thickening and ulceration of the skin. This is the most common type of tumor found in horses. Sarcoids can occur at any age, they can be single or multiple and you will find them most frequently on the head, limbs, and abdomen. You can also see them on sites of trauma and healed wounds.

Their appearance can vary from a small growth that has a warty appearance, sometimes a cauliflower texture – I’ve seen this one inside the ears – some are firm, others can be moved freely, and we can see some that form nodules.( In my case, we have all of the above in one area.) There are six actual types of sarcoids:Occult – these appear as gray hairless areas and are usually flat. These are the ones people usually think are old scars. Most are round, but any shape can be seen. These are the ones that are found on the face, behind and under the elbow, inside the thigh and even in the groin areas. Nodular: can be a single, marble-like tumor or multiple tumors under the skin. The skin may move over the nodule or may be attached to it. They are often seen in the thigh, groin, armpit, and eyelid areas. These are the ones you want to watch as they can form ulcerations. Verrucose: are the ones that look warty and can have some red ulceration on the surface. These are frequently found on the face, groin, inside the thigh, sheath and inside the elbow area. Fibroblastic: are common in any of the thin skinned areas. These are flat based, and usually bleed when bumped. We usually find this type after a trauma to that area. Malevolent: this is the worst of the sacrcoids. These spread expansively through the skin with cords of attachment, frequently form nodules and ulcerate. These are primarily found around the elbow and face. Mixed: are any of the above, appearing on the head, under the elbow, in the groin area, and can also appear anywhere on the body.

So now we have a basic knowledge of what it is, what can we do to treat it?
There are many methods for treating sarcoids, some of which include surgical excision, cryotherapy, immunotherapy, radiotherapy, laser therapy, hyperthermia, topical chemotherapy, and intrtumoral chemotherapy. Treatments may have to be repeated. From discussing with the vets and doing research online surgical excision does not sound like a viable option for us due to the fact we are dealing with such a large area, and you have a fair chance of reoccurrence – to include the tumors coming back and spreading to a larger area

There are many methods for treating sarcoids, some of which include surgical excision, cryotherapy, immunotherapy, radiotherapy, laser therapy, hyperthermia, topical chemotherapy, and intrtumoral chemotherapy. Treatments may have to be repeated. From discussing with the vets and doing research online surgical excision does not sound like a viable option for us due to the fact we are dealing with such a large area, and you have a fair chance of reoccurrence – to include the tumors coming back and spreading to a larger area. The hardest part in making a decision such as this is that there is no consisistency with the effective treatments. Each tumor responds to each treatment differently. Freezing the tumors (cryotherapy) has to be repeated several times and can come back with aggressive new regrowth. It was our personal decision to try Xxterra. This is a product that is an herbal formulation of bloodroot powder and zinc chloride. It is suppose to alter the antidenicity of the sarcoid to stimulate the immune system. This product was first used on a resident horse at the CSU teaching hospital in Fort Collins, where a large sarcoid on the front leg had been removed several times and returned. After the treatment with Xxterra the leg healed and no further reoccurrence.

This is something that is either going to work right from the beginning or it’s not going to do anything. If you find after the initial application, blistering, weeping, etc. You’re going to see positive results while the skin takes it time to fight the growths and reheal. If you find the day after treatment NO CHANGE in the skin, there is no point in continuing further. In OUR case, the day after the initial application his skin was weeping, blistered, and two of the nodules were scabbed and looking as if they were going to come off. Literally over night there was new hair growth, I was sure I was imagining the hair growth and had to call one of my equine friends who knows the horse well, to come and look at it to confirm what I saw, and she was in the same page with me. At the time of writing this, I am 3 days into treatment, and have decided to take pictures from here on out of the healing process and when you look at this first set of photos; you can SEE the new hair growth.

Please note that when I checked his face this morning, it looked awful, the entire area was blistered, the skin was weeping, and I was concerned about infection, so I lightly sprayed the area with cold water and applied Furacin, these pictures were taken in the evening after the area dried, and look nothing like they did initially. If you chose to try this product, be prepared that things are going to look nasty before they get better. I wanted to share our story with you in hopes that it will help another sarcoid victim.

Please check http://ouellette-farms.com/main/page_news_gallery_news_item.html for pictures and an update on how his healing is progressing.

Rain Rot, Sweet Itch, Fungus, Bug Bites….I Love Spring & Summer!!

All year I wait for the daffodils to pop their heads out of the soil, the azaleas to burst into bloom, and for the weather to warm so I can have some uninterrupted riding time.  Now that I finally see my way clear of winter, I’m noticing all sorts of skin ailments on my horses’.  Heck, they get a diet full of immune boosting herbs and flax seed, but one horse is prone to fungus and the other can attract bug bites to the point that it looks like hives.  What’s a mother to do?

First, the bug bites.  Starting in March, I begin adding granulated garlic (don’t get powdered it’s too messy) to my horses’ diet.  I get the stuff right from the restaurant supply store.  It’s 100% garlic and costs a whole lot less then buying from my local feed store.  At 17.1 hands, this horse gets 1 oz. per day, and it makes a huge difference in the amount of bites he gets.  I also put some Spirulina in his diet to keep his immune system in shape and less reactive to bug bites during this difficult time for him.  Even with these preventatives and a lot of all-natural fly spray (see my recipe below), he gets bitten.  Over each bite I put a dab of Zephyr’s Garden, Stop The Itch salve.  This stuff works.  It stops his rubbing and gets the healing jump-started with a combo of herbs that includes Chickweed, Thyme, Comfrey, and Marshmallow Root.  It smells great, goes on easily, and I always use it on my mosquito bites as well.  Sometimes the bites form a crust and I continue to use the salve until the crust falls off and I see new hair growing.  The comfrey in the salve promotes fast hair re-growth and, so far, the hair always grows back brown, not white.  I’ve also been told from barn friends that the salve works well on dog summer “hot spots”.

Poor guy, not only does he get bug bites, but spider bites, and sweet itch along his belly.  For the spider bites, which can swell up to 3” circle, I make a poultice of powdered clay mixed with apple cider vinegar.  I clump it on over the entire swollen area and let it sit over night.  By the next morning, most of the swelling is gone and I put a dab of the Stop The Itch salve over the little bite mark. 

Sweet Itch is caused by a horses’ allergic reaction to the saliva of midges or juvenile gnats.  It can affect a horse anywhere, but is most prevalent around ears, head, tail, mane, and belly.  The itch is so intense some horses rub on objects to the point of causing bleeding, that’s when an infection can set in.  For my horse it’s usually along his belly and the Spirulina (about 1 Tbs/day) helps keep the skin reaction to a minimum.  Belly bands on flysheets help, but the midges are tiny and they still get him.  As soon as I notice the little fly bites I slather on the Stop The Itch salve.  It coats the area, soothes his skin, and most importantly stops his itching.  The salve contains beeswax so it stays where you put it and forms a protective barrier.

My other horse has never had a bug bite in her life, is not on garlic or Spirulina, but is the fungus queen.  Every spring she sprouts a little Scratches on her socks and a little Rain Rot on her quarter-horse-round rump.  Maybe her love of standing in the rain is part of the problem, but I think she is just pre-disposed to fungal infections.  Supplement-wise I boost her with Echinacea, Rose Hips, and Bladderwrack, a type of kelp.  These all work to get her immune system fighting the fungus, but I still have to topically tackle it a few months of the year.  For both conditions the key is to reduce the moisture, stop the infection and start the healing.  For Scratches, you have to catch it quick.  It can spread like lightening, so if you see a little scab, treat it aggressively.  I’ve seen horses go lame from scratches if left untreated for too long.  At that point, veterinary intervention is required.  But, I’m always on the lookout for it, so when I see a tiny scab, I wash the area with an anti-bacterial shampoo, let it sit for a few minutes, then use a dog flea comb to gently remove the scabs. Once they are wet, the flea comb removes the scabs easily and cleanly.  I’ll then rinse the area, dry very well with a towel and let the hair air dry as well (In a rush? Use a blow dryer).  When the area is dry, I put some Zephyr’s Garden Anti-Fungal salve over the Scratches sores.  I personally don’t clip the hair or wrap the leg. The salve is brown, from Black Walnut Hulls, goes on smoothly and really sticks to the area it was applied.  This fungal salve has worked very well for me over the years, but the rule of thumb for Scratches is try a cure for 3 days, if you don’t see improvement, switch to another product.

For rain rot, the cure is the same as for scratches.  Clean the area, use a flea comb to gently pry off the scabs, dry the area well, and apply some fungal salve.  For one horse at our barn, the hair seemed to grow back overnight.  The key is to keep the area clean, reduce exposure to moisture, and make sure all blankets, brushes, and pads are thoroughly cleaned.  The fungal organism can spread through spores and will infect other horses that are susceptible to this fungus.

So between currying off that heavy winter coat and keeping my horses free of bug bites and fungus, I’m beginning to look forward to cool fall days!

My All-Natural Wormwood Tea Fly Spray

This fly spray works well, about as well as all the other “natural” ones, but I like making it myself and ensuring that nothing harmful is sprayed on my horses.  Plus since I spray myself when going on trail rides, I want to be extra careful what I use.  Wormwood is a very bitter herb and repels flies and ticks.  When you make the tea, the stronger the better.  This recipe was found in The Practical Horse Herbal, by Victoria Ferguson and has been modified a bit my me.

This recipe is for making two 32 ounce spray bottles of fly spray.

Ingredients:
Wormwood Tea
Apple Cider Vinegar
Essential Oils for each 32 oz bottle:
    Citronella – 1 oz
    Pennyroyal – 20 drops
    Eucalyptus – 15 drops
    Lavender – 10 drops

In a pot containing 8 ½ cups of boiling water, add 4 handfuls of wormwood dried herb.  The exact amount is not important, what matters is that the tea is very strong.  Turn off the burner and let the tea steep overnight.  In the AM, use sieve or some cheesecloth and drain the tea from the herb.  If you use cheesecloth squeeze out as much liquid as you can.  Split the tea into two fly spray bottles.  Next add an equal amount of apple cider vinegar to each bottle.  Lastly, add your essential oils.  Shake well.

Your fly spray is ready, with one bottle to spare.  Before every use shake the spray bottle well to mix the essential oils with the liquids.   Works great and smells good too.

Herbal Horse Salves:
Zephyr’s Garden – www.ZephyrsGarden.com

Herb and Essential Oil Suppliers:
San Francisco Herbs – www.sfherbs.com
Mountain Rose Herbs – www.mountainroseherbs.com
Starwest Botanicals – www.starwest-botanicals.com

Photos by my good friend and horse lover Kimerlee Curyl – www.kimerleecuryl.com

Senior Horse Care and Cushings

As your horse begins to age you may have noticed that his/her needs are beginning to change.

One of the most important things you can do for senior equine is to ensure that he is not standing idle. Keeping him in a stall without turn out is one of the worst things that you can do. I prefer to keep my senior “friends” out in a pasture situation that can be closely monitored.

With lack of exercise you will see a decreases their circulation which makes it difficult for nutrients to reach his muscles. Combine this with lack of use, and you will actually see deterioration of muscle tone. If your senior has a physical issue that makes exercise painful there are additional methods of therapy that can improve circulation without irritating an existing problem – I would talk with your vet about these options which could include swimming, hand walking etc.

As your senior ages his vulnerability to infections will increase, as well as an increase in risk of dehydration and colic. Keeping this is mind, any signs of illness whether it appears to be just a cold, should not be taken lightly.

Older horses are more attractive to insects. It is not uncommon for senior herd members to be covered with mosquitoes’ and flies. It is believed this is due to a combination of factors to include” declining immunity”, thinning and increasingly dehydrated skin, and less overall activity, making an older horse easier for bugs to find, land on and bite. I like to use Endure fly spray, you’ll find the upfront cost a little more, however it is water resistant and does not come off when they sweat, reducing the amount and frequency of application which saves in the long run. A fly sheet and mask combo are also very helpful to deterring the pesky bugs. I have even gone as far as adding citronella leg bands in addition to the sheet, mask, and spray. One of my geldings is an absolute bug magnet, and without all of this, it’s not uncommon to go out and find blood on his legs from all of the biting flies.

Senior horses may be more sensitive to heat and cold. Make sure that your horse has a draft-free shelter that will protect him from the elements and that his pasture mates will allow him access to that shelter. If you notice your horse is shivering despite the shelter, you want to consider a blanket, and check him daily to ensure his blanket is securely in place and that your horse is not overheating. Malnutrition is the primary cause of lower body temperature in senior horses due to lack of energy intake. Be sure that your horse is getting enough heat-generating fiber during the cold weather months. A diet that contains 2 percent of your horses’ body weight per day in high-quality roughage is what you’re looking for, and you may want to discuss with your vet to develop a ration that suits your individual equine’s needs. For those horses that are losing their teeth their options available such as extruded complete feeds, or chopped and pelleted hay. I happen to be a big fan of extruded soy, and beet pulp J You can easily take your alfalfa pellets, hay cubes, grain, etc and mix them in with your beet pulp. Make sure that you allow enough time for the pulp shreds to expand in water. This is also a good way to ensure that your horse is taking in additional fluids.

During the winter months, your horses coat can hide their weight loss. You may want to begin a monthly check by running your hands over your horse, if his ribs become more prominent than normal adjust his feeding rations accordingly.

In the spring, you may notice that your senior is having difficulty shedding out his coat. I have a gelding that drops a significant amount of weight every year during this process and I have found it to be easier on him to just go ahead and body clip him. I keep a sheet on him while his summer coat is coming back in, and on days and evenings that the temperature drops I will add a blanket. I find that for this particular gelding, we do not have the weight loss if we handle his spring shedding in this manner. If you chose to start this routine, make sure that you pay attention to the actual coat before clipping, if your horse is NOT shedding, and you see a long shaggy coat, you may want to speak to your vet about Cushings.

Equine Cushings disease is caused by a tumor in the pituitary gland which is responsible for the regulation and production of hormones. This is a disease that you will see in a large number of senior horses. The most common symptoms are:

**Failure to shed the coat; it becomes shaggy and long. **

Increased thirst

Increased frequency of urination

There may be a reduction in muscle mass

Appetite may be increased

Due to the increased production of cortisol, the immune system becomes depressed, with an increase in infections; this also poses a threat towards the development of laminitis.

Your vet can do blood tests to confirm the diagnoses, and in general there are several things that can be done to improve your horses’ health with this condition. Most of these are things that you should already be doing with your senior horse even without this diagnosis.

Regular worming

Dental Care

Making sure you horse is on quality feed and receiving adequate nutrition

Body clipping may be necessary during the warmer months

Prolonged antibiotic courses may be required if concurrent infections are present.

Written by: Tonya Ouellette

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Are Your Horses at Risk for Foundering

Are your horses at risk for foundering?
By Tonya Ouellette

For those of you who are looking to put that extra weight onto your horse coming into winter, you may want to ask yourself this question, Is my horse at risk for foundering?

The terms laminitis and founder are often used together, and this is not correct. Laminitis more often than not, leads to founder. Laminitis is an infection or inflammation of the lamina, or tissue that connects the coffin bone to the hoof wall. As the layers of the hoof wall separate, this causes pain in the tissues underneath the hoof wall.

Founder occurs when the bond between the tissue separates as the lamina die. This causes the attachment of the coffin bone to the hoof to break down, sink, and even rotate;  This damages the arteries and veins and destroys the tissues around the bone. In extreme cases the coffin bone will rotate downwards and penetrate the sole of the hoof.

We usually find the front feet to be affected due to the fact that they support more than half of their body weight.

What are signs of laminitis and founder?

It is far easier to prevent laminitis and founder than to treat the occurrence. Even aggressive treatment can fail and require the horse to be euthanized. Early symptoms are often subtle. The horse may be stiff in the forelegs. Many times you will find them standing in the “founder stance” with their hind legs well up beneath their body to take as much of the weight possible, while the front legs are forward with the weight resting on the heel. Your horse will be reluctant to walk, due to the pain. If all four feet are affected, your horse may try to lie down and NOT want to get back up.

Other symptoms can include heavy breathing, hot feet, and a pounding pulse over the fetlock joint.

Each attack of acute laminitis can leave a ring formation on the hoof, if you notice a horse with multiple rings; it’s very likely they have suffered a chronic foundering. You may also notice a “seedy toe”, which is a separation of the hoof wall from the lamina, if this is left untrimmed, the hoof wall will overgrow to form a protective covering. In advanced stages you may also see the coronary band ooze blood or serum. 

So this is all some scary stuff huh! There are numerous causes for this condition to happen and it’s important to be aware of these to keep your horses SAFE!

Eating too much grain! Specifically those that are rich in carbohydrates. Lush pasture ( even lawn clippings) These changes release bacterial toxins into the bloodstream, which disrupt normal blood flow to the hoof. This is the most common cause we see in laminitis.

Drinking large amounts of water when overheated.

Having insulin resistance. Horses with this condition are prone to laminitis.

Exposure to black walnut shavings

Prolonged use of corticosteroids

Stress, including colic

High fever or illness. Any time they have a metabolic disturbance, we find the potential for this to cause laminitis.

Risk factors would be seen in heavier breeds of horses, such as drafts, horses that are overweight, horses that are on a high grain diet.

If you suspect that your horse is developing laminitis, it is important to act right away! Those few hours can make a significant difference in the outcome of your treatment. Call your vet and follow his/her instructions. Take your horse off the pasture immediately and make sure that they have no access to ANY grass. Feel for heat in your horse’s feet. If possible, direct spray of cold water of the affected feet will help to reduce inflammation. Once the vet arrives, he/she will be able to assess and start treatment to relieve pain and reduce swelling.

Treatment for laminitis will vary according to the severity of the condition but it can include: encouraging the horse to lie down to relieve pressure.  Imposing dietary restrictions to prevent overeating and obesity.  Administration of pain killers and/or anti-inflammatory. Opening and draining any abcesses that may develop.

Diet, Diet, Diet!! Don’t make changes overnight! Stay away from those carbohydrates, and monitor the amounts of grain you are feeding. If you horse is on the heavy side to begin with, you are not doing him a favor giving him that extra feeding. It’s a hard thing for us to do, but in the long run, well worth it to keep our equine friends safe and healthy!